Winter Vegetables: Radicchio Risotto
Winter is radicchio season in Northeast Italy. Radicchio, a member of the Cichorium intybus species, is the queen of winter vegetables. Every January, my village of Maserà di Padova celebrates the local excellence that is radicchio bianco fior di Maserà. Cultivated on a territory of about twenty hectares by a group of passionate farmers, this radicchio has a unique, delicate flavour.
It’s Sunday afternoon and the annual Radicchio in festa is in full swing. Happy farmer families are showcasing various types of radicchios. I’m meandering through the vegetable stands, gaping at the rich produce. Amid the typical fog of the Po Valley, I recognize the radicchio of my village: bianco fior di Maserà. I also spot the varied radicchio of Castelfranco, the red Trevisano radicchio—both unripe and late—as well as other varieties, such as the radicchio of Chioggia and that of Verona.
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red Trevisano radicchio
The highlight of the festival is the tasting of radicchio risotto, which excites and warms everyone present. I believe preparing a good meal with winter seasonal vegetables is the best way to feel in harmony with a silent and seemingly dormant nature.
As the day draws to a close and evening sets in, the last festivalgoers walk home through the fog—which has now completely embraced the village—with conspicuous loot bags. At the festival, I bought four heads of late red Trevisano radicchio, sweetly flavoured and perfect for making an excellent risotto.
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Back in my kitchen, the characteristic silence of a Po Valley winter night is broken by one of my favourite sounds: olive oil and onion soffritto browning in a pot. I wash the radicchio then cut it into pieces. add it to a pan along with a red onion, some olive oil, brown sugar and salt and pepper. I cover the pan and let it cook for five minutes. I remove the lid after five minutes and allow it to continue to cook uncovered for another 10 minutes, while continuously stirring. I rinse the rice and pour it in the pot with the soffritto, letting it brown for a couple of minutes.
To make the slow-cooked traditional risotto, I start at a low heat and transfer the cooked radicchio into the pot where the soffritto was browning. One spoonful at a time, I add the vegetable broth that I’ve previously prepared, while stirring until the rice is slightly al dente—about 20-25 minutes. I’m now ready for the mantecatura (blending while gently stirring). This delicate final step will make our risotto creamy. I turn off the heat, add a couple tablespoons of Parmesan cheese and one tablespoon of cold butter. I slowly blend everything together. I leave the pot covered for two more minutes. The radicchio risotto is ready to enjoy, warming us up on a silent and foggy winter night.
Recipe for radicchio risotto (makes 2 servings)
Ingredients for radicchio base
4 heads radicchio (or other seasonal winter vegetable)
1 red onion
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Pepper
Salt
Preparation method
Radicchio base
Wash and cut radicchio into pieces.
Add olive oil to a large pan, then add the radicchio pieces, a chopped red onion, brown sugar and some salt and pepper.
Cover and let cook for five minutes.
Continue to cook uncovered, constantly stirring, for 10 more minutes.
Ingredients for risotto
1 white onion
3 tablespoons olive oil
160 g risotto rice
600 ml vegetable broth
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon cold butter
Pepper
Salt
Preparation method
Radicchio risotto
Sauté a chopped white onion and three tablespoons of olive oil in a pot to make a soffritto.
Rince the rice, add it to the soffritto, stir, let brown for two minutes.
Transfer the cooked radicchio to the pot, while continuously stirring until rice is al dente, about 20-25 minutes.
On low heat, add vegetable broth to the pot, one spoonful at a time.
Turn off the heat, add Parmesan cheese and tablespoon of butter.
Blend, while gently stirring, until creamy.
Cover, let cook for two minutes.
Serve and enjoy!
TEXT AND RECIPE BY ILARIA BERLOSE