The Emblematic Trench

Timeless, elegant and sophisticated—that’s how many of us would define the emblematic trench coat. The name has its origins in the First World War, when soldiers wore lightweight, waterproof coats while fighting in the war’s difficult trenches. The design and material protected them from rain, storms and muddy terrain while enabling ease of movement.

However, the trench coat was invented almost one hundred years before the start of World War I by Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh. The coats were then named “Macs” in honour of the inventor. The style was further perfected in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, largely thanks to a breathable, weatherproof fabric he created called gabardine. 

The gabardine trench coat is still a classic made by Burberry today. The luxury fashion house currently designs trench coats in five signature styles, each named after an iconic London location: Kensington, Westminster, Chelsea, Waterloo and Pimlico. Over the decades, the trench coat has been replicated by myriad designers, allowing “the quintessential British coat,” as described by Burberry, to become a mainstay all over the globe.

Trench coats are characteristically double-breasted with ten front buttons, and also feature epaulets, lapels, spacious pockets and a storm shield. The storm shield across the upper back serves as an extra layer of water protection by permitting rain to slide off and preventing it from infiltrating the garment. The sleeves are slightly wide with cuff straps at the wrists. Colours are typically neutral, generally available in various shades of khaki, tan, white and black.

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The coat’s practicality and sense of refinement have led it to become a wardrobe staple, but its desirability is likely more a result of glamour than convenience. Truth be told, the trench coat is what brings elegance to a simple walk in the rain, broadening our collective imagination. It suffices to think of Gene Kelly in Singin’ in the Rain or of Audrey Hepburn and her alluring ivory trench in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. 

Trench coats aren’t just for rain. They can be worn buttoned up on a chilly autumn day or open on a cool summer evening. Their versatility creates endless dressing possibilities, making them look as beautiful paired with a short dress and heels as with sneakers and jeans.

Styling is entirely personal and largely weather dependent. If it’s warm, the sleeves can be pushed up to the elbows or left as they are. The collar can be pulled up to protect one’s neck from the wind or kept folded down. No matter the style, the final look is undeniably chic, and the silhouette, always flattering, especially when cinched at the waist with the distinctive trench belt. There are many ways to loop and tie the belt, with no hard and fast rule to abide by, except perhaps for the buckle. It isn’t necessary to slip the strap inside the buckle; simply tightening a knot in your preferred style will do.

TEXT BY FATIMA RIZZO